CC image courtesy Nikita Gavrilovs |
We'd been warned before we started the journey that we
wouldn't be able to buy any of the cold drinks that were served on route
because they were probably not hygienic. We were to drink just hot tea or
coffee or bottled soft drinks like Coca Cola which were never cold. However, at
regular intervals people who made a living from selling food and drink on the
train would come through the carriages with these trays of beautifully coloured
cold drinks that had ice cubes in them and were clearly deliciously cold. Local
passengers snapped up these drinks - they were dirt cheap – and guzzled them
down while we just sort of sat there drooling with envy for the first several
hours of the journey and stayed with the coffee, tea and Coca Cola routine. As
the hours went by this became harder and harder and at one point one of our
group decided they couldn't take it anymore. These drinks looked so inviting! Suddenly
as one of these vendors with these enticing looking drinks came by he just blurted
out ‘I'll have one of those’, took it,
drank it and we all watched in anticipation to see whether he would get sick on
the spot or 5 minutes later but after a certain amount of time passed he still seemed
to be fine so from then on we all helped ourselves to these drinks and no one
got sick. Not on the train at least.
It was a 24 hour journey so we had to endure at least one
night on the train. It was around Christmas time and in those days I always
carried my guitar with me. I don't know
how it came about. I guess I must have played a few songs. I don't remember whether it was my idea or whether
someone asked me to play my guitar but late at night as the train was going clickety
clack clickety clack through the warm tropical night across Java I played Silent
Night. It was one of the more remarkable
things that had ever happened to me. Silent Night is one of those songs that
everybody knows it seems almost everywhere and even if they don't the melody is
so poignant and engaging and beautiful that it stops everything and it did
indeed stop everything on the train that night. For a few minutes as I was playing and singing
Silent Night I was aware that 50 - 80 people or more were dead silent and were
just listening to me singing and playing. Nineteen year old Michael on a train
in Java singing Silent Night in the middle of a tropical night! Those who knew
the melody or the words joined in. It
was a really special moment.
There is another indelible memory of this train journey
across Java. As all the Indonesian people often walked up and down the train so
we took to doing the same thing. It would help pass the time, stretch your legs,
and you’d get some fresh air because the area between the carriages was not
covered. It was just a very basic coupling joining one carriage to the next.
There was a metal plate you could walk on with a couple of flimsy hose handles that
would be considered unsafe and completely forbidden in Australia. But in Indonesia back then it was allowed. It
was nice and breezy there and a lot of people gathered at these intersections between
the carriages. The end of each carriage also
had a ladder that allowed you to climb up on the roof and invariably there were
people on those ladders between the carriages and clearly there were people
going up onto the roof. Eventually I got my turn to climb up one of these ladders
and to my amazement the carriage that I was riding on had about 20 people up
there sitting, talking, some walking, some lying … most of the carriages had several
people up there so not only were people in the aisles and on the seats and in
the baggage racks they were on the roof as well! I stayed up there for a while
and really enjoyed it. However some time later there was a bridge in the
distance. Clearly it made sense to get off the roof while the train goes under
the bridge and most people did. They climbed down from the roof. As I was
climbing down the ladder between the carriages I decided to stay there and keep
my head just above the roof level of the carriage to see what it was like as
the train whooshed under the bridge. There
was a little boy - I'm guessing about 8 - 10 years old - who hadn't moved and
was still sitting quite erect and cross legged on the top of the train and I
was concerned because the bridge was coming closer and this little boy hadn't
moved and I was trying to get the attention of other people to tell them the
bridge was coming and that there was a boy still up there on the roof. They
were clearly not worried and told me not to fuss. As the train passed underneath the bridge I
kept an eye above the level of the carriage to watch what this boy was doing - actually
I don't think I did. I looked away right at the last minute. But without
flinching he just sat there as the train whizzed under the bridge cool as a
cucumber. It didn't decapitate him! In fact he was completely unhurt and the
people around me laughed because they trusted that this boy knew what he was doing.
One of them actually pointed to him and said “been before.” The boy was quite
familiar with the train ride and the height of the bridge. He was just enjoying
a game of chicken with the bridge. I'll never forget it