Artefactum (Spain) |
Day 1
Womadelaide’s small stages have always hosted the more niche
like acts. They’re more intimate, quieter, and tend to feature more ethnically
pure music of the kind that was much more prevalent in Womad's early days.
So I spent my first evening going from Ghana (Moreton Bay
stage) to Reunion (stage 7) to Rumania (Frome Park Pavilion), and finally to medieval
Spain (back at the Moreton Bay stage).
King Ayisoba and his band hail from Ghana. The band
is a 6 piece and 5 of them play percussion – draw your own conclusions! The
only non-percussive instrument, which King himself plays is the kologo, has
just 2 strings and is played mostly as a percussive instrument as well so the
primary effect is rhythmic.
King has a growling and gruff vocal style that at
times feels quite intimidating but the rhythms are strong and the crowd is up
dancing and there is mercifully no electronica interfering with the traditional
rhythms.
Down the other end of the park on stage 7 Destyn Maloya
from Reunion was offering a more varied repertoire of melody and rhythm. Reunion is not far from Madagascar and
Womadelaide has previously hosted the beautiful polyphonic melodies of Justin
Vali, and some of their material had that similar feel. But like so many African
groups their happy place is rhythm based and Destyn Maloya soon had the
malleable crowd jumping like rabbits and joining in a Conga line.
Nearby in one of Womadelaide’s newer venues an Australian
based group who play Romanian music and who curiously call themselves SuperRats gathered around their featured instrument, the cimbalom. The cimbalom
is large dulcimer with 145 strings and sounds like a cross between a piano and
a xylophone. Apparently the pronunciation of the words Super Rats sounds
like ‘the irritated ones’ in the Romanian language. This music is relatively
low brow in its original context – played in bars and cafes where people drink and
do shady deals - but in the context of a Womadelaide performance there is
nothing shady about this music. The pieces are tight, rhythmically complex and
driven by a dominant double bass. Accordion and fiddle are great accompaniment
for the cimbalom in these entertaining traditional dance tunes.
So then back in time to the Middle Ages. Artefactum (pictured above) play Spanish music from the 12th -14th centuries and it
is exquisite. Led by the drone like sounds of one of the strangest instruments
ever made, the hurdy-gurdy, this music is full of delicate melodies and
intricate vocal harmonies. Music from Medieval times has such a beautiful
melodious quality. It’s almost as if music was breaking free from the confines
of a restricted past and celebrating a wondrous joy,
A perfect end to the day. It seems there may have been a
drift away from the ubiquitous ‘global funk’ that has tended to dominate the
Womadelaide program in the last few years, but it’s early days….
Iberi (Georgia) |
Day 2
Day 2 dawned sunny and gentle. The Planet Talks venue has
gratefully moved into a larger location – a tent called the Frome Park
pavilion. The first session for the day focused on the Wreck of Tech and was
insightful and depressing. All 3
speakers, Julia Powles, Peter Lewis, and Robert Elliott Smith, have written
books or papers questioning the role and authority of the tech giants in our
daily lives, and there was fairly solid agreement that they have not made our
lives better. They reflected on the fact that rather than bring us together the
new technologies have collapsed any notion of collective or commons where we
might come together to solve problems. Google and Facebook’s business models
serving personal echo chambers have actually driven us apart. I left the
session close to tears.
L Subramaniam gets the tag ‘the Paganini of Indian
classical music'. After some short information about the structure of the music they
were about to play Subramaniam and his group, together with the help of some
very audible bats (it was good to see they survived the summer heat) launched
into what he called a ‘short’ raga – a beautiful slow building piece of musical
meditation that was 30 minutes long!
Gelareh Pour is an Iranian now living in Australia.
Her high-pitched dreamy vocals (it was hard not to think of Kate Bush) floated
towards you as you approached the Zoo stage. Accompanied by traditional
instruments (Iranian versions of fiddle and lute, plus more conventional drums
and electric guitar) her songs had a plaintively beautiful tone and slowly
pulsating beats that were quite alluring.
One of Luisa Sobral’s songs won Eurovision in 2017.
In my view that does not nothing for your musical credibility but this
Portuguese singer-composer is something special. Her singing is classy and smooth as
silk, and her original songs are full of passion and sophisticated melodies.
Unlike many Womad performers from lands where English is not the first
language, she chatted away confidently about her life and how she was not going
to let the Corona virus stop her from achieving her lifelong goal of coming to
Australia. The arrangements of her material matched the quality of her songwriting.
She was accompanied on guitar by her ‘Portuguese musician’, and a trio of fine
local musicians on cello, woodwind and brass. Just gorgeous music and as great
original music so often is – very hard to categorise.
Iberi (see above) are from Georgia in the former Soviet Union,
and appeared in monk-like costumes with daggers. Their music now apparently
drifts around in space on board Voyager 2 as an example of the beauty of the
human voice. Their material is mostly
acapella, and sounds quite monastic. Intricate harmonies and a stylised vocal
style from old Georgian folk tunes may make this music an acquired taste for
some. I was reminded of the deep resonant tones of the Sardinian Tenors
many Womads back.
Every Womad festival has a Celtic group to lead the fiddle
and pipe charge and this year the responsibility falls to Rura from
Scotland. Their frantic and frenetic start drew the flock like Celtic lemmings
to front of stage but I stuck to my guns and went to the next offering on the
smaller stages – Catrin Finch and Seckou Keita down on stage 7.
It was only a matter of time before a kora (or chora) player
hooked up with a traditional harpist, and it has happened in this wonderful
partnership between Senegal and Wales. Kora music has enchanted Womad audiences from the very early
days and that has not changed. Seckou Keita is a griot, someone who has
inherited his musical tradition through his family, and he plays with flare and
joy. It’s a little harder to be physically engaged when you’re stuck behind a
harp but Catrin Finch does a lot of smiling at Seckou’s antics and the
wonderful sounds these 2 multiple stringed instruments make together. It’s a
perfect harmonic blend with some entertaining rhythmic interplay between the
two musical cultures they represent. Again
the bats, just waking up now after a day hanging around upside down, joined in
and it seemed entirely appropriate.
Such is Womadelaide 😊